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St Dogmael’s Abbey was founded by the Normal lord Robert Fitz-Martin and his wife, Maud Peverel, in 1120. It is reputedly on the site of a Celtic monastery founded by Dogmael, a now obscure 6th-century saint said to have been the son of Ithel ap Ceredig ap Cunedda Wledig and also the cousin of St David. St Dogmael’s was an abbey of the Tironian order, the only one established in Wales or England, although it did have daughter priories in Wales and Ireland. A few Tironian abbeys were also established in Scotland. The abbey was known for its fine library; it was dissolved in 1536.
The ruins are in an attractive residential area. The abbey church is clear, with a crypt in which, apparently, there was a shrine to St Dogmael. Little decoration remains, but there is a trace of fan vaulting in the north transept. The location of features such as the cloister can be made out. There is also a small visitor centre.
Shingrig
St Dogmaels
St Nicholas’ church, Montgomery dates from the 1320s – it was built at a similar time to the castle. It is dedicated to St Nicholas of Myra, or Bari, patron saint of children (of course) and, among other things, sailors, brewers and pawnbrokers. It is a large, attractive, church with an impressive roof. Its features include an original 13th century rood screen, choir stalls and misericords, all brought from nearby Chirbury Priory when the latter was dissolved in1536.
The highlight, however, is probably the ornate Elizabethan canopy tomb of Richard Herbert (1557-96), Lord of Montgomery Castle, erected by his wife Magdalen (1561-1627). Effigies of them both are side by side and behind are featured eight of their ten children, which included the poet George Herbert. Beneath is a memento mori, an effigy of a cadaver – presumably representing Richard. Magdalen is not entombed here; she moved away after her husband’s death, remarried, and is buried in Chelsea. The tomb also contains the remains of the couple’s grandson, Richard, 2nd Baron of Chirbury, who died in 1655 and was the last of the Herbert family to live at the castle.
To the left of the elaborate tomb, on the floor, are two simple effigies. They are probably of (closest to the wall) another Richard Herbert, grandfather of the Richard in the tomb, who died in 1534 and Sir Edmund Mortimer, one-time constable of Montgomery Castle, who died in 1408 supporting Owain Glyndŵr at the siege of Harlech. Mortimer appears in Shakespeare’s Henry IV Part 1.
Outside in the churchyard, not far from the rear entrance, is the Robber’s Grave. This contains the mortal remains of John Davies of Wrexham, convicted of highway robbery and executed in Montgomery in 1821. Davies swore his innocence and said that, just to prove it, no grass would grow over his grave for 100 years. You can judge for yourself.
Montgomery
The ruins of Strata Florida Abbey are in a beautiful location in meadows, surrounded by hills, near the River Teifi. Strata Florida (Welsh Ystrad Fflur) is Latin for ‘Vale of Flowers’. It was founded in the 12th century by Normans, but developed under the patronage of Rhys ap Gruffydd, The Lord Rhys, the ruler of the kingdom of Deheubarth. So Strata Florida became a focal point for Welsh culture and a place of pilgrimage. Generations of Welsh princes are buried there and the 14th century poet Dafydd ap Gwilym is said to be buried under a yew in the adjoining churchyard of St Mary’s parish church. St Mary’s stands on what was abbey land and is believed to have been built using stones from the abbey ruins.
Though Strata Abbey, rightly, has a place in Welsh hearts – it has been called ‘the Westminster Abbey of Wales’ – very little of the medieval building remains to be seen. The most significant piece of masonry is the carved west doorway of the abbey church. There are also some impressive floor tiles in what were transept chapels. As of 2021, archaeological exploration was underway at the neighbouring 17th century Mynachlog Fawr Farmstead – whose buildings almost certainly utilised stonework from the old abbey. This may reveal more about the astonishing complex that once stood there. There is a visitor centre and also a small museum about the family that lived in the farm.
Tenby perches on a rocky promontory between two sandy bays overlooking the Bristol Channel. It is a picturesque walled town with cobbled streets, a 15th C Merchant’s House and an interesting history. Famously, Henry Tudor sailed into exile from the town, returning later to defeat Richard III at the Battle of Bosworth and found a new dynasty as Henry VII. It’s a popular resort. As well as the usual beach stuff, cafes and so forth, there are boat trips to nearby islands, water sports and walking on offer along the coastal path.
Valle Crucis Abbey, the valley of the cross, allegedly named for the ancient Pillar of Eliseg just down the road. These are the evocative remains of a Cistercian monastery, dating from 1201.
Note - parking is difficult at this site.
Obviously named for the black sand, Whitesands Bay is a wide, beautiful, Pembrokeshire bay popular with surfers, canoeists and body-boarders - particularly the northern end closest to St David's Head. At very low tides, the remains of an ancient forest have been seen and the remains of animals found. It's a great and interesting walk to St David's Head.
The car park can get full at peak times; buses are available from St Davids, 2 miles away.
Pembrokeshire’s Witches’ Cauldron (or Witch’s Cauldron?) is one of many sea caves in Wales and a noted attraction in Pembrokeshire. It is impossible to miss and can be found right on the Wales Coastal Path about a mile south from Ceibwr Bay. Pwll y Wrach (Witches’ Cauldron) is a collapsed sea cave. Only accessible via sea tunnels and often displaying bright emerald green water, it is dramatic and popular with experienced swimmers (who reach it from an adjacent rocky bay), as well as with canoeists. Naturally, it is alleged by some to be haunted, or the lair of an evil sea-witch who waits inside to consume anyone that trespasses on her property. Even if you are not experienced and brave enough to venture inside yourself, it is fun to sit and watch others doing it. The coastline here is particularly beautiful, and dramatic, so it is well worth the walk.
North east of Molygrove. There is limited roadside parking on the narrow road near Ceibwr Bay. Post code approximate.
Moylgrove
Cardigan
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