Portsmouth is my hometown. When growing up there, a walk along the seafront was a frequent occurrence. It is still often on the agenda when visiting today, so that’s what this is all about. There are ships to watch coming and going on the Solent, one of Britain’s busiest and best-known waterways, with the Isle of Wight as a backdrop. The weather can be distinctly blustery, or hot and sunny, yet generally there is at least a gentle breeze bringing the sea-salt air inland, across the shingle beach. Sometimes there are things happening on the Common. There are dog-walkers, runners, families out for the day, and a walk, between Old Portsmouth and the Rose Garden at Southsea, is packed with stories – snippets of history – from end to end. It is almost entirely flat, linear and about two miles each way. You can either stroll back, stopping for coffee as you go, use public transport, or merely tackle it in leisurely fashion from your armchair. There is a lot to see, but you don’t have to do it all in one go; just bookmark the page and come back later. There is car parking at either end and along the route. It doesn’t matter which way you go – I have arbitrarily decided to start in Old Portsmouth and head east. But first…
A (tiny) bit about Portsmouth
Portsmouth, Britain’s only island city, is located in Hampshire, on the south coast, opposite the Isle of Wight. In the 19th century, it was one of the most heavily fortified towns in the British Empire, if not the World. With a large, natural, harbour to its west, it has long been one of the Royal Navy’s premier ports. You can easily spend a couple of days visiting the Historic Dockyard, which is home to Nelson’s flagship, HMS Victory, Henry VIII’s Mary Rose and the world’s first iron-hulled warship, HMS Warrior – and much more. While you’re there, take a cruise around the harbour.
The first known mention of Portsmouth appears in the 9th century Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, which says that in 501 AD Port and his two sons, Beida and Maegla, arrived in Britain with two ships at a place called Portes mutha, where they killed a young British nobleman. Most historians, however, say that the town did not exist until the 12th century when, in about 1180, Jean de Gisors established a small settlement at the corner of Portsea Island, to which King Richard I granted a charter to in 1194.
Charles Dickens, Isambard Kingdom Brunel, James Callaghan, John Pounds, (the founder of ragged schools), Peter Sellers and the author were all born in Portsmouth. Arthur Conan Doyle, Rudyard Kipling, HG Wells and Nevil Shute lived there. Portsmouth Football Club – aka ‘Pompey’ – held onto the FA Cup for a record 7 years, having beaten Wolverhampton 4-1 in the 1939 final, after which the competition was suspended until 1946. (This little snippet of information can come in handy during pub quizzes.)
The cricket commentator, John Arlott (1914-91) apparently wrote of Portsmouth, “Seedy at times, grim in places, but colourful and tinted with the hues of history.”
Dr George Pinckard, tolerantly writing in 1795, said, “But here hordes of pollinating females are seen reeling in drunkenness or plying upon the streets with a broad modesty which puts the great orb of noon to the blush. These daughters of Cypria are not only of manner peculiar, but likewise of such peculiar figure and apparel that it were, perhaps, difficult in any other part of England to find a correct resemblance to the “Sweet Poll of Portsmouth”.
The diarist and administrator Samuel Pepys, writing in the previous century, more charitably described it as a “pleasant and strong place”.
Time to begin our amble along Portsmouth’s seafront, don’t you think? To help with orientation, there is a map at the end.
Portsmouth Point
Portsmouth Point is right at the end of Broad Street and is also known as Spice Island. This name, some suggest, was due to its malodorous smell. Others more prosaically say it was so named because spices were landed here. It was, indeed, once an island with a drawbridge near the old Sally Port. At the eastern edge of Portsmouth Harbour, the Point area is the oldest part of town and was once fortified. Locals will tell you that this is where Sir Walter Raleigh landed the first potatoes and tobacco from the New World in Britain, in the late 16th century. In the 18th century, the Point was a heaving, bawdy, bustling, place, full of sailors, their ladies and press gangs ready to trick innocent lads into accepting the King’s shilling and joining the Royal Navy. The scene depicted in Thomas Rowlandson’s 1811 sketch of Portsmouth Point would perhaps have been familiar to George Pinckard.
These days, Point is a spot to enjoy a pint at one of its two famous old 18th century pubs, the Still and West and the Spice Island Inn, formerly the Coal Exchange, whilst watching ships move slowly in and out of the harbour. There is a terrific view across the water toward Gunwharf Quay, the Spinnaker Tower and the Royal Navy Dockyard. You can normally see the masts of HMS Victory and Warrior from here as well as, perhaps, the superstructure of any Navy vessels that happen to be in port. My photo showing the superstructure of the UK’s huge aircraft carriers, HMS Queen Elizabeth (RO8) and Prince of Wales (R09), in their home port in 2025, was taken from the Point. Across the water is the town of Gosport, which also boasts a rich naval history
The Royal Navy dockyard meant that Portsmouth was extensively bombed during the Second World War, but there are still remnants of the older town around Broad Street and High Street. Behind Broad Street is Bath Square, where (surprise, surprise) a public bathing house stood. The old weather boarded Quebec House is a former bathhouse. It is named after the Canadian Province. Nearby, in 1759, Major General James Wolfe set sail for Canada, where he defeated the French on the Plains of Abraham in Quebec, and died in the process. Wolfe did not think much of Portsmouth, either. His views did not prevent him from helping Britain gain control of Canada from the French.
Another surviving old pub, the Bridge Tavern, is situated nearby on Old Portsmouth’s Camber Dock. The Camber was the original fishing settlement and is a colourful, busy, area still used by Portsmouth’s small fishing fleet.
Until the mid-19th century, King James’s Gate, named for the subsequently deposed King James II, stood at the end of Broad Street and gave access to Spice Island across the drawbridge. Part of the gate can still be seen as an entrance to a sports ground not far from the Royal Navy base.
The Round Tower
The Round Tower and adjoining ramparts are remnants of the medieval fortifications built to protect Portsmouth Harbour. It was built in the 15th century, initially in wood on the orders of Henry V, following a series of attacks from the French during the Hundred Years War.
Today, the Round Tower is a great place for views over Old Portsmouth and the Solent. Across the narrow entrance to the harbour, in neighbouring Gosport, is Fort Blockhouse, which also dates from the 15th century. Sometime early in the reign of Henry VIII, an enormous defensive chain, the Portsmouth harbour chain, was placed across the ‘haven’, or mouth of harbour, to discourage unwanted guests. It was raised and lowered by great capstans either side. Two surviving links from the chain are on display at Southsea Castle.
The Round Tower is also a place where families and well-wishers congregate to wave off Royal Navy ships as they leave port to defend Britain’s interests overseas. This is an emotional experience, even as an onlooker.
Hot Walls and Sally Port
The south facing defences running between the Round and Square Towers, parallel with Broad Street and the sea, are known as ‘Hot Walls’. This was a gun battery and the name is said to derive from the custom of heating cannon balls to make them more deadly when fired at wooden ships. Check out the creative studios in the storage arches under the walls; there’s a great café, too.
A sally port is a small exit point in a fortification to allow troops to make a sally. They are quite common – every home should have one. Old Portsmouth’s remaining Sally Port in the town’s defences was once known as the King’s Stairs and only supposed to be used by officers and above. This is said to be the place from which naval heroes like Nelson embarked to do battle – and where Catharine of Braganza landed on 14 May 1662 to be married to Charles II, just a week later, at the Domus Dei nearby. A small complex of buildings once occupied the area around Sally Port, including the Town Major’s office with its small walled garden.
If you want a brief diversion from the route, the old Sally Port Inn is located along High Street, opposite Portsmouth Cathedral. The Cathedral is well worth a visit. Nearby, you will also find the privately owned Buckingham House, a former inn known as the Spotted Dog, where George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, was murdered by a disgruntled naval lieutenant, John Felton, on 23 August 1628.
The Black Stone
The Black Stone, or Hecla Memorial, used to fascinate me as a child. It was once located further east, near Clarence Pier, and commemorates an event from the Crimean War of 1853-56, fought between Russia on one side and an alliance of Britain, France, the Ottomans and Sardinia-Piedmont on the other. Fighting was not limited to the Crimea, despite the name given to the war. Anyway, a landing party from the sloop, HMS Hecla, far to the north in the Gulf of Finland, was attacked by a strong body of Cossacks. A couple of sailors from Hecla took cover behind a large black stone and kept the Russians at bay until their comrades were safely back on board ship. Captain Hall commanding Hecla had the stone brought back to Portsmouth and it has been there ever since. The idea of two men, under fire, sheltering behind it is quite bizarre; it doesn’t look big enough.
The Pioneer Statue
The Pioneer Statue commemorates “the commitment of the Europeans who courageously left their native lands to create a new home in America.” It was donated to the City by the Pioneer Heritage Foundation.
Bonds of Friendship
Close to the Sally Port is the Bonds of Friendship memorial, two massive sculpted links of chain resting on a block of granite. This commemorates the sailing of the First Fleet of settlers, mainly convicts, from Spithead to Botany Bay, Australia, on 13 May 1787. The Fleet was led by Captain Arthur Phillip RN. The memorial is a reminder of Portsmouth’s links with Australia. The granite comes from New South Wales and there is a twin memorial near Circular Quay, Sydney, Australia. The links in the two places represent a chain – the bonds of friendship – that join Britain and Australia represented by Portsmouth and Sydney. Sydney’s chain links are in bright brass, symbolising the ‘new country’, whereas Portsmouth’s, in the ‘old country’, are dull!
Square Tower
The Square Tower was built in 1494 as part of the City’s fortifications. It began life as a fortress and featured in Henry VIII’s improvements to Portsmouth’s defences following the break with Rome. It became a powder magazine in the late 17th century and, until 1833, housed a semaphore tower on its roof. Semaphore was used as an early 19th Century signal chain system, which in this instance ran from the Admiralty in London to Portsmouth Docks and claimed an impressive average end-to-end transmission time of 15 minutes. A new tower was built in the Royal Dockyard, though the system became redundant after the arrival of wireless telegraphy in 1848. These days, the Square Tower is a wedding venue; but at least it is still there.
Beyond the Square Tower is Battery Wall – the name speaks for itself. To the left of the Battery Wall is the Tudor-built saluting platform. Below and to the right is Victoria Pier, originally built in 1842 as a landing stage for the steam packet ferry trade to the Isle of Wight and France. It is Portsmouth’s oldest pier.
Roanoke voyages
A plaque on the Square Tower commemorates the sailing of 91 men, 17 women and 9 children from Portsmouth on 26 April 1587 to Roanoke, in the New World. This was in the area the English called Virginia, after the Queen, Elizabeth I; it is now in North Carolina. The expedition was organised by Sir Walter Raleigh – his second to Roanoke. The settlers established the first English village in America and the first child of English parents born in the New World, Virginia Dare, was born there on 18 August 1587. She was the granddaughter of Governor John White. The colony, known as Raleigh’s ‘Lost Colony’, had disappeared by 1590. The fate of the colonists remains unknown to this day.
Charles I bust
The bust of Charles I can be seen set into the wall of the Square Tower facing High Street. The original, made of lead gilt, was set in this specially constructed setting in 1635. It was probably destroyed in the Civil War, when an image of the King would have been unpopular. A replacement was put in place after the Restoration, but by 1981 it was thought to be in poor condition (I’m not really surprised, are you?) and was removed to the City Museum. What you see now is a fibreglass copy.
Memorial to Commander Flinders
The memorial to Captain Flinders is set into the fortified wall on Broad Street, close to the Square Tower. It commemorates the departure of HM Sloop Investigator under the command of Matthew Flinders, RN, on 18 July 1801 from Spithead. Flinders had been instructed to chart the entire coastline of the then unknown continent of Terra Australis – Australia. The task was completed between 6 December 1801 and 9 June 1803. On his return journey, Flinders was detained by the French, with whom the UK was at war, in Mauritius (the Ile de France), finally arriving back in Portsmouth on 24 October 1810. Flinders gave Terra Australis the name of Australia.
Captain Flinders died of kidney disease at home in London in 1814, but the exact location of his burial was lost in the mid-1800s. His remains were rediscovered in 2019 during work on the HS2 railway near Euston station in London. He was reburied on 13 July 2024 in his home village of Donington in Lincolnshire, with a service at the Church of St Mary and the Holy Rood attended by his descendants, the Bishop of Lincoln and dignitaries from Australia and Mauritius.
Grand Parade
The Grand Parade appears like an elegant remnant of Georgian Portsmouth. Astonishingly, most of its buildings survived Portsmouth’s Blitz. In days past, it was used for military ceremonials and, in the 19th century, a military tattoo closed the day here. Further back, it was a centre of attraction in the annual Free Mart Fair, which was held in the High Street area in August or July from the 12th to the 19th centuries. The event featured beer, stalls, circus acts, and shows with wild animals. The Fair was marked open by the hanging of a carved hand in the High Street, the ‘Open Hand’, which was removed at the end. The meaning or significance of the hand is unknown.
On the seaward side of Grand Parade are the foundations of the military guardhouse. There is also a statue of Horatio Nelson, close to where he embarked to meet the French fleet at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.
Royal Garrison Church and Governor’s Green
The Royal Garrison Church, situated on the Governor’s Green, is all that remains of an ancient hospital of St Nicholas Domus Dei, God’s House founded by the Bishop of Winchester, Peter de Rupibus, in 1212. It has a fascinating history and is well worth a visit. Its partially ruined appearance is due to German bombing in 1941. Read more about the Royal Garrison Church here. I won a red rubber ball in a running race on Governor’s Green but, curiously, can find no mention of this momentous event in the history books.
The Ramparts
The remains of the Ramparts east of the Square Tower are a small fraction of the extensive moated fortifications that used to completely envelop the old town of Portsmouth. Later defensive structures in the 18th and 19th centuries set out to protect the whole of Portsea Island, on which Portsmouth is located, and a distance inland. The fortifications of Portsmouth and Gosport became part of the wider fortifications of the Solent.
Solent sea forts
A glance seaward at pretty much any stage of your walk along the seafront will reveal at least one of four ugly, static, constructions in the water at the eastern end of the Solent. These are the Solent Forts – Spitbank Fort, Horse Sand Fort, St Helens Fort and No Man’s Land Fort. They are positioned to guard the narrow deep-water shipping channels entering the Solent. They were commissioned by the Prime Minister of the day, Henry John Temple, 3rd Viscount Palmerston, along with a series of forts along Portsdown Hill, north of Portsmouth, and on Gosport. None of the forts was ever used for their intended purpose and are hence collectively referred to as ‘Palmerston’s Follies’. Some, including the Solent Forts, saw service during the world wars, notably Fort Southwick on Portsdown Hill, which was an underground communications centre for Operation Overlord (D-Day). Fort Nelson houses the Royal Armouries’ ‘big guns’ museum. Forts No Man’s Land and Spitbank were converted to hotel accommodation, but at time of writing appear to be closed.
Clarence Pier and Esplanade
Clarence Pier is a brash funfair including amusement arcades. The pier is unusual in that it does not project into the sea, but runs along the coast. It was originally built in 1861 and opened by the Prince and Princess of Wales – later Edward VII and Queen Alexandra – and a regular ferry service ran from there to the Isle of Wight. At one time, it was served by a tram service. It was extended at various times, but bombed in 1941, reopening 20 years later. The name was derived from Clarence Esplanade, which was named for the illegitimate son of King William IV, Lord Frederick Fitzclarence. Fitzclarence was Lieutenant Governor of Portsmouth and supported the creation of the esplanade, built using cheap convict labour. Somewhere along the esplanade, I’m not sure exactly where, you enter the seaside suburb of Southsea.
Adjacent to Clarence Pier is the Hovercraft Terminal, with services to Ryde, on the Isle of Wight. Established in the early 1960s, the hovercraft is the fastest way to reach the Island (10 minutes) and claims to be the only year-round public hovercraft service in the world still in operation. Close to the Hovercraft Terminal was the gibbet on which the body of John Felton, the man who assassinated the Duke of Buckingham, was hung.
Clarence Esplanade memorials
There are a series of memorials along Clarence Esplanade, between the Hover Terminal and Southsea Castle.
Trafalgar memorial – a memorial to the Battle of Trafalgar, which took place on the 21 October 1805. The memorial was originally an anchor from HMS Victory – it is now a replica – and was placed further west, near Spur Redoubt. One of the inscriptions reads, “Near this memorial on the 14th September 1805 Admiral Lord Nelson embarked for the last time, being killed on the following 21st October at the victorious Battle of Trafalgar.” The memorial also records that, “The British Fleet consisted of 27 sail of the line: that of the allies of France and Spain 33, of these 19 were taken or destroyed by Lord Nelson.” Tap for more about HMS Victory and Trafalgar.
Chesapeake Monument – HMS Chesapeake was a mid-19th century 51-gun frigate, which saw action during the Second Opium War. The memorial commemorates the crew that fell in battle or died from disease or accident at various locations and actions in modern China, ‘Arabia’ and India.
HMS Shannon Monument – HMS Shannon was a 51-gun frigate that played an important part in the Indian Mutiny of 1857-58. A force from Shannon fought at the Siege of Lucknow, winning five Victoria Crosses.
HMS Trident Memorial – commemorates 44 officers and Men of HMS Trident, a paddle sloop, who died of yellow fever in Sierra Leone in 1859.
HMS Aboukir Memorial – commemorates 48 officers and men of the Aboukir who died during an epidemic of yellow fever in Jamaica between 1873-74. This HMS Aboukir was a 90-gun second-rate ship of the line.
Sebastopol Naval Monument – commemorates the soldiers and sailors who served in the Russian (Crimean) War of 1854-56, and who died of their wounds and are buried in Portsmouth. The memorial specifically references battles at Sebastopol, Sweaborg, Alma, Balaclava, Kertch and Inkermann.
Southsea Common
Southsea Common is immediately opposite Clarence Esplanade. Once known as Froddington (Fratton) Heath, it was granted to the Abbey of Titchfield and sub-let to Domus Dei. Eventually, it was surrendered to the Crown and, aside from the parts used for fortifications, before the 19th century and the development of Southsea, it was mostly waste ground as far as Eastney. It was levelled from 1831 onward, using convict labour and up to the mid-19th century, boasted a windmill. During the Second World War, anti-aircraft guns were stationed there. These days it is used for leisure.
Portsmouth Naval Memorial
Overlooking Southsea Common, Portsmouth Naval Memorial commemorates nearly 10,000 British and Commonwealth sailors of the First World War and almost 15,000 of the Second World War, whose only grave is the sea. After WW1, the Admiralty recommended that the three great Royal Navy ports of Chatham, Plymouth and Portsmouth should each have an identical memorial of unmistakable naval form, an obelisk, which would serve as a leading mark for shipping. Portsmouth’s memorial was unveiled by the Duke of York, later King George VI, on 15 October 1924. The Second World War extension was unveiled by his widow, the Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, on 29 April 1953. More about Portsmouth Naval Memorial.
D-Day and LCT 7074
LCT 7074 is the last surviving Landing Craft Tank (LCT) from D-Day and played a vital role in transporting men and supplies across the English Channel. LCT 7074 was turned into a nightclub in the 1960s and ‘70s, but fell into disrepair and sank in Birkenhead docks. Following a multi-million pound restoration project, it can be found on Clarence Esplanade, opposite the tennis club, and is part of the nearby D-Day Story. LCT 7074 was designed to carry 10 tanks; two, a Sherman and a Churchill (that used to stand at the front of the museum) are displayed on the tank deck to give an impression of what a loaded LCT would have looked like.
The D-Day Story – the clue is in the name – is a museum that tells the story of D-Day and the Battle of Normandy. It holds over 10,000 items, including the unique 83-metre long Overlord Embroidery.
Southsea Castle
Southsea Castle was part of a series of fortifications along England’s coast built by Henry VIII to help defend England from invasion. Constructed in 1544, it overlooks the Solent and helps to guard the entrance to Portsmouth Harbour. Henry stood on its gun platform and watched Mary Rose sink right in front of his eyes in 1545. The castle was captured just once in its history, by Parliamentary forces during the Civil War, its fortifications were strengthened in the 19th century and it continued in use up to the Second World War. Since then, it fell into disrepair but remained in military ownership until c1960. It has subsequently been extensively refurbished and opened to the public. It’s not huge, there is a small but interesting exhibition, defensive tunnels and great views over the Solent to the Isle of Wight from its battlements. At time of writing, there is a cafe and a microbrewery in the courtyard. More about Southsea Castle here.
Along the prom…
Late 19th and early 20th century seaside shelters along the seafront have been restored as part of the Southsea Coastal Scheme, a sea defence improvement project.
South Parade Pier
South Parade Pier has had a somewhat chequered history. It opened in 1879 and, at 1,950 feet (594 metres) long, was more than suitable for Isle of Wight steamers to use it. It suffered three fires – in 1904, 1966 and, the most infamous, in 1974 during the filming of the rock opera, ‘Tommy’. During the Second World War, South Parade Pier was requisitioned for the preparation and embarkation of troops to France as part of D-Day. It was partly dismantled with temporary piers built from scaffolding alongside to increase the number of troops that could be loaded. During its lifetime, it has played host to many star performers of the day, including Frankie Howerd, Peter Sellers, Tommy Steele, the Beverley Sisters, the Pretty Things, the Bee Gees, Status Quo and David Bowie. It’s a shadow of its former self now, but hanging in there!
Southsea’s submarine barrier
Just east of South Parade Pier, a line of submerged 10-foot square blocks extends out to Horse Sand Fort. It was built in 1905 to force ships to pass between the guns of No Mans Land and Horse Sands Forts. Thus, it is ‘submarine’ in the sense of being underwater, rather than a defence against submarines – which were in their infancy when the barrier was installed.
D-Day Memorial
Southsea’s D-Day Memorial is situated on a traffic island just to the east of South Parade Pier, close to the Canoe Lake. It resembles a tank trap, thousands of which were placed around Britain’s coast in the Second World War as part of its defence against invasion. Portsmouth and Southsea seafront was closed off from 1943 to all without a special pass and the beach was covered with barbed wire for the duration. The memorial commemorates the thousands of troops boarding landing craft from South Parade Pier, the Camber at Old Portsmouth and Portsmouth Harbour. Portsmouth was the main departure point for units going to Sword Beach in Normandy. Local people watched them march through the city, undoubtedly wondering how many would return safely. 27 men from Southsea were killed on D-Day and during the Normandy campaign.
Canoe Lake
Southsea’s Canoe Lake was constructed from the large area of marshland known as the Great Morass, which covered part of Southsea Common. To its east, there was once a mill, Lumps Mill, part of Lumps Farm, which had been in cultivation since at least 1600. In 1884, however, City records apparently described the future site of the Canoe Lake as “a dismal-looking depression, strewn with rusty tins, mouldy rubbish and other abominations”. That year, work began to turn it into an ornamental lake, using unemployed labour. It was formally opened by the Mayor in 1886.
Canoe Lake was initially used for sailing model yachts, but boating soon arrived. The lake is filled with seawater, topped up at high tide via a sluice gate, which makes it a great place for catching crabs. I speak from personal experience. Canoe Lake is also known as a ‘swan’s nursery’ where up to a hundred juvenile mute swans can be seen during winter months. They bite – also from experience. As well as swans, the Lake attracts a variety of other birds including mallards, tufted ducks, Mediterranean gulls, cormorants and little grebes. These days, the Canoe Lake area hosts a surprising variety of planting landscapes.
At the western end of the Lake is the Emanuel Memorial, an ornate Victorian drinking fountain that commemorates Alderman JP Emanuel, one time Mayor of Portsmouth, who agitated for improvements in the area. The fountain is in the form of an angel of peace. As a child, I used to gaze up at it in wonder.
Lumps Fort
Just beyond the Canoe Lake, to the east, you will find Southsea Model Village and the Rose Garden. Both are located on the site of yet another of Portsmouth’s retired fortifications, Lumps Fort.
Lumps Fort began life as a redoubt in Tudor times, but was fully fortified in the 18th century. In 1805, it housed three 32-pounder guns and by 1822 was one of the stations on the semaphore line from London to Portsmouth. The fort fell out of use, but was reconstructed between 1859 and 1869 as one of Palmerston’s forts, designed to hold 17 guns and a non-permanent establishment of 100 men. It was rearmed with newer guns in 1896 and again in 1914. Largely demolished at the end of the First World War, the fort was occupied during the Second World War by, first, an experimental group from Combined Operations and, next, the Royal Marine Boom Patrol Detachment (RMBPD). The latter was a specialist unit , one of the forerunners of the Special Boat Service (SBS), the maritime equivalent of the Special Air Service (SAS). The RMBPD, most famously, conducted Operation Frankton – the Cockleshell Heroes’ raid on Bordeaux harbour in 1942.
After the war, Lumps Fort was planted as a rose garden, with the eastern part of the site becoming the Southsea Model Village. Both are worth a visit – and remains of the fortifications, including gun emplacements, can be seen. Within the model village is an excavated 125-foot long rifleman’s tunnel. You can read more about the Rose Garden and Cockleshell Heroes here.
Thus concludes our walk along the seafront from Old Portsmouth. Next time – somewhere else!
Matthew Flinders was a hero of mine since childhood. I had no idea of the loss of his remains and the finding of them last year. Thanks.
I used to live near Eastleigh a long time ago. We used to visit Portsmouth and Southsea often. The children loved the funfair, of course. It was interesting sitting on the beach watching the ships.
We also took the hovercraft to the Isle of Wight, and the cross-channel ferry to France, many times.
Your post, and photographs brought back many memories. Thank you.
I confess I do enjoy visiting now and thought it high time I gave the old place a bit of a plug!
About a year ago we visited a friend’s daughter in Southsea. It was good to return and remember.
Every time I drive into Portsmouth I get lost, so I try not to do it too often. Your photos do make it look as if it’s worth a proper visit, though, perhaps by train.
It has certainly changed. Just follow signs to the seafront – it doesn’t matter which end of it you reach 🙂
Is your website parked for long?
I’m lacking inspiration for it at the moment. I should get back to it, because I do miss it.
Mike, this is a wonderful homage to your home town, packed with far more history, fascinating and humorous detail; interesting quotations and illustrations than I have ever taken in before, despite my now being a neighbour. There must be a book in itself here.
Thanks, Derrick. I’m sure there is – and someone must have written it by now!
A wonderful post with lots of great photos
Thanks, Joanne – much appreciated 🙂
Spouse and I lived in the UK for two years in the early 1970s, in North London and Herts, and loved them both. But the jobs kept us limited geographically, and we had not enough money back then. I would have loved living the south coast. Thank you now, 53 years later.
Your photos of the port, dockyards and pier are still lovely, but I don’t remember the Camber at all.
Thanks! I didn’t appreciate it when I was there – it was just what I knew.
Great post Mike.
Ta, Malc!
A facsinating post Mike and so full of interest. The Royal Garrison Church looks a lovely building, the Canoe Lake looks very attractive and I like the pretty seaside shelter.
Incidentally did you know that Portsmouth Town Hall – the Guildhall since 1926 – is a near-identical twin to my own local town hall? Bolton Town Hall is a scaled-down version of Leeds Town Hall and Portsmouth Guildhall is an up-scaled version of Bolton Town Hall. The architect of the Bolton and Portsmouth buildings had been a pupil of the architect of the Leeds building – I love how the three are inter-linked. I remember seeing the Portsmouth building from the train on the way to the Isle of Wight ferry while on holiday with my parents in my early teens.
I didn’t know that, Eunice – or that you ventured so far south 🙂 I should check out those guildhall references – including Portsmouth’s when I’m next down that way. I remember my father telling me about it burning during an air raid in 1941 – but it was repaired and I attended gigs there when a teenager.
Wow Mike! This was a very extensive read and very informative. You having grown up there gives you a very in depth knowledge of course. So much rich history! Thanks for sharing and have a great new week.
Thanks, John. Inevitably, I got most of the knowledge later – apart from the bit about the rubber ball, of course 🙂
You’re welcome!
I’m going to click on the link of the Royal Garrison Church, which is such a pretty building; you’ve piqued my interest. The fountain angel looks so beautiful. I like religious statues which seem inviting – these stiff, modern ones leave you cold. The model village also has me curious! Thanks for the walk, Mike!
Good to hear that, Lisa – it’s a fascinating story. And you can’t beat a decent model village for a bit of fun!
I loved the walk, Mike. It resurrected happy memories of a rare family holiday based at Southsea when we must have walked for miles and miles. I was probably 14 at the time. I didn’t realise they still had hovercraft crossings. They must be very expensive to maintain and run now!
I have the autographs my brother got from the first hovercraft flight from Southsea – somewhere!
We hovered from Dover to France and straight back, just for the experience!
That was a tremendous piece of work….I followed all the links, too, to make sure of missing nothing.
Though I was smiling at the idea of the sweet Polls and the recommendation to install a sally port in every home, and enjoyed the historical informaton I finished with an overwhelming feeling of sadness for all those who sailed away and did not return….and a burning fury for the folly of the raid on Bordeaux…brainless, bungling, gung ho idiots sending young men to their deaths.
I note that even in death the Navy liked to make distinctions….ranks and ratings, indeed!
Thanks very much, Helen – much appreciated. Yes, when I was a lad the story of the Cockleshell Heroes was the stuff of legend. Now I realise what a complete ballsup it was and get angry about the criminal disregard for the lives of the men – heroes, it is true – who took part.