Last updated on August 23rd, 2023 at 01:25 pm
Blakeney Point in north Norfolk is a 4 mile spit of shingle, sand dunes, salt marsh and mud flat, sticking out into the sea. It is part of a national nature reserve, much beloved of wildlife watchers of all shapes and sizes, and is an internationally important habitat for species holidaying in Britain from faraway lands, as well as native varieties.
Among other things, Blakeney Point is home to one of the largest colonies of grey and common seals in Britain. My son and I had arranged a weekend in Norfolk for a bit of dad-boy time, and a boat trip to pay the seals a visit was second only to beer on the agenda. It is sensible to book ahead, a task which I managed to delegate with surprising ease.
So, after what seemed like 15-hour drive through the worst Friday evening traffic to the far reaches of eastern England, I joined my young companion (who had journeyed in the opposite direction) in our very pleasant rented cottage. Having gently explained that age entitled me to the best room, we then happily settled down to resolve the problems of the world. However, being a committed landlubber, what I hadn’t foreseen was the necessity of coinciding our expedition with the tides and, consequently, the need for a relatively early start the following day. The expression, “just another small one, then” was still haunting me at oh-my-goodness o’clock in the morning as we pulled-up, freshly showered, but a little confused, in the coastal village of Blakeney.
Blakeney had been an important port in medieval times, and even thrived into the 19th century. Somewhere in its flat hinterland are the buried remains of a Carmelite monastery. The silted river channels are now only suitable for smaller craft, but there’s still a bustle about the place. On a fresh, sunny, October day Blakeney looked splendid; and was, for some reason I still haven’t figured out, where our tickets awaited us.
Then it was a short drive along the coast to the tiny village of Morston and Morston Quay, our embarkation point. This, too, had once been a busy port. Now, it serves as a base for the businesses running seal-viewing trips, plus the odd fisherman. There’s a large, unsurfaced, car park, a small observation hut and information centre, some toilets, lots of boats, a huge horizon and a whiff of estuary.
The seal trip people bring their craft alongside wooden piers that grow out of the mud. Our pier seemed to sway slightly, though that might have been me. Anyway, we clambered aboard our allocated vessel and gazed like first-formers, trustingly and expectantly, up at our Captain. He was reassuringly sailor-like, in late middle-age with a weathered face, iron-grey beard and twinkling eyes beneath a tattered baseball cap. I half-expected him to pop open a can of spinach. By some means – I can’t remember how – he satisfied himself that everybody who should be on board was, and we chugged off into the channel. Several other boats were similarly engaged and we formed a straggly convoy. The boats were all pretty similar – open, like large rowing dingies, with a single outboard motor, and accommodating perhaps 20 – 30 passengers. I wondered, vaguely, if the seals were expecting us – or so many.
As we made our way through the green-brown channels toward the open sea, the Captain ran through the essential safety briefing. He explained where the lifejackets were kept, advised us to scream extremely loudly in the event that the boat capsized in the middle of the North Sea and, most importantly, showed us the nearest emergency exit. Finally, he apologised for the absence of a trolley service.
It did not take long to reach Blakeney Point and there was plenty to look at along the way. I was tickled by the sight of several boats which appeared to have garden sheds built on them – used for fishing or bird watching, I’m guessing – as well as a couple of handsome yachts. We passed the old lifeboat house and, shortly after, began to see dark shapes bobbing in the sea ahead.
I wasn’t quite prepared for the sheer number of seals that lay basking in the autumn sunshine. There were scores of them. They rolled, undulated over the sand, played with each other, splashed about, snorted and cast doleful brown eyes in our direction. Some of them were enormous – easily as large as an adult man – and ugly-looking brutes; others were undeniably cute.
Risking a chorus of protests from those that know far more about these things than I do, I venture to suggest that Britain can claim little in the way of really interesting wildlife. We have the odd snake and wildcat, but have carelessly done away with our bears and wolves, and wild hippos and so forth haven’t been seen in Neasden for many a year. But what we do have is jolly nice and, whatever, it is ALWAYS a privilege to see creatures in the wild. I was bowled over looking at these seals; they were, quite simply, beautiful. They seemed completely unperturbed by our presence. The Captain made a couple of passes, and then we turned tail and headed back to port.
It is at times like these that you realise the value of going on a photography course. Alas, I haven’t been on one. In addition, in my defence I offer the excuses of shooting into the sun, an unstable platform and a temporary inability to focus for medical reasons. Notwithstanding all of that, go and see the seals at Blakeney – you’ll love it. I’d be very happy to go again (after the photography course).
I’m rather fond of Norfolk.But I never saw all these seals!
I can recommend a boat trip!
Looked it up on the map, a fascinating landscape. And great photos if you ask me. Like the boat with the shed.
Those seals are so cute on pictures!
Lovely photos of the seals 🙂
I do protest about your comment on the lack of interesting wildlife…
We have badgers, otters, red squirrels, hedgehogs, a delightful variety of birds and bats…
You are quite right – I consider myself admonished!
May I just say, this post gets my SEAL of approval. (Stop groaning!) 🙂
Oh, noooo!
Really enjoyed that post Mike as I like being beside the sea, in boats, or visiting rivers and beaches, especially when it’s warm. Given your night before indulgence it’s just as well there was not a large swell as it’s impossible to hide on a large packed boat. Good photos of the seals. Personally, with wildlife, it’s more a matter of keeping your eyes open, being in the right place with a decent zoom camera and having ” The Eye” for a memorable photo. Practice makes perfect rather than a course… unless you like the technical side of photography… processing… equipment….. filter use etc,,, which can be an expensive money pit if you get addicted. I’ve known more than a few folk hill walking who had five times the gear I had, including numerous pairs of boots… yet hardly went outdoors.
Enthusiasm and dedication are the best things you can pack I always find, then the rest will come naturally….
Thanks, Bob – really appreciate the encouragement, particularly given your skills with a camera!
Hi Mike – Norfolk is an area I don’t know much about … but the times I’ve visited I’ve loved the area … perhaps one day I’ll get to go back again and spend some time – love your story telling of the time with your son and the seal trip … happy memories – and these photos are lovely – that shed on a boat is fun to see … cheers Hilary
I meant to add about the change in the importance of ‘ports’ and how their economy fared depending on future developments – Hedon on the Humber – it’s only a town now, was in the 11th or 12th largest port in the UK in the 11th and 12th centuries – and the coastline you’re describing here – has lots of coastal erosion. Constant change …
Ah – change is the only constant? Yes, I just happened to focus on Blakeney.
I’ve been to Blakeney a couple of times but never went out on the seal tour – would probably be sea sick. I love the town though.
Sounds like a great father-son trip. I hope he enjoyed it as much as you did. I didn’t know Britain had seals.
We have never ventured onto The Sea as we always had the dog with us, but have spent many hours, on different days, on the Blakeney car park, free using the Nat. Trust membership. When the tide was in the little crab things were being caught by the bucketful by the kids. Those seals are lovely.
Interesting post, and nice photos. I was in Blakeney on dark-sky day in 1991. I can’t think of another place I’ve visited that’s generated such an atmosphere. By the way, if you haven’t already signed up for a photography course, the OU offers a very good one. I completed it in 2009.
I have been meaning to take this trip for more years than I like to remember. I used to have camping holidays at Blakeney with my parents and we camped in a field near the enormous church in the village. Great post!
We have seals a’plenty here in the Pacific Northwest, but I never tire of seeing them. Yours look a lot like ours – big, grey and with very pretty eyes. At the marina close by the Harbour Seals are very tame and look for the children to throw them bits of fish.
Your photos look pretty good to me!
I’d need a few small ones just to get on the boat. Worth it though.
Your photos are fine. It is difficult for anyone to take shots into the sun. I never knew Britain had seals. Thanks for educating me.
They really are very photogenic!