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Probably Dorset's most famous lost village, frozen in time. Â In 1943, the villagers were ordered to leave their homes so that the area could be used for training; they never returned. Â Only empty buildings remain, plus the preserved school and church, offering a fascinating insight into life in isolated communities in the first half of the 20th century, together with an evocative air of sadness.
Check opening times carefully - the area is still used for military training.
Thorpeness began as a whimsical fantasy holiday seaside village, the brainchild of Glencairn Stuart Ogilvie in the early part of the 20th century. There's a lot of mock Tudor architecture. Â It is famous for its House in the Clouds. There is a boating lake, a pub, golf course, tennis courts, walking - a very quiet, gentile, kind of place.
Shere is a picturesque, much admired (perhaps over-visited), historic village – some say quintessentially English – just off the A25 between Guildford and Dorking. It was mentioned in Domesday and there is a plethora of timber-framed, tile-hung, old brick and stone and plant-festooned houses, with a little stream, the River Tillingbourne, running through the centre of the village – much loved by ducks and children. Some of the buildings are by Edwin Lutyens, designer of the Cenotaph and Thiepval Memoral. Shere has a couple of tearooms, two pubs, a museum, an interesting medieval church (St James’s) and the village even boasts its own car park. The surrounding countryside is attractive (the Surrey Hills is an official Area of outstanding Natural Beauty), and popular. Famously, Shere has featured in films, including Bridget Jones: Edge of Reason and The Holiday.
The pretty Cornish village of Polperro has been a fishing port since at least medieval times and a magnet for visitors, including artists, for as long as anyone can remember. Narrow streets between quaint old flower-decked cottages mean that tourists are not able to drive their cars to the harbour, but there are carriages available – and boat trips too, when you get there. The village’s name probably derives from the old Cornish ‘porth’ for ‘harbour’ and means ‘harbour of a man called Pyra’, but what is certain is its notoriety for smuggling in the 18th and 19th centuries – which has contributed to a rich folklore and is illustrated in the Polperro Heritage Museum of Smuggling and Fishing overlooking the harbour. Pilchards, apparently, were once a particular speciality for Polperro’s fishermen, while other members of the family were employed in processing them. It is still a working fishing port as well as a popular tourist destination. There is an annual Art Festival in June and the village has a renowned Fishermen’s Choir.
NB Don't rely on your Sat Nav - park outside the village and walk or take a carriage to the harbour.
Mayfield is a large, bustling, attractive, Wealden village, with many independent shops and stone, timber-framed and weather-boarded buildings dating from 15th century. The Middle House Hotel is dated 1575. Situated on a high ridge, there are fabulous views. Legend has it that St Dunstan, patron saint of ironworkers, had a forge in the village and fought the Devil by tweaking his nose with a pair of tongs. This image is reflected in Mayfield’s village sign. Dunstan went on to become Archbishop of Canterbury in 959AD and built a wooden church in the village – or perhaps a palace. Certainly, the Archbishops of Canterbury had a palace here, the remains of which (with additions) are now an imposing looking school with a wonderful, medieval, gatehouse. After the Reformation, the Palace became the home of the Elizabethan trader, financier and gun maker, Sir Thomas Gresham. The Mayfield Cannon, cast in the Mayfield furnace, probably owned by Gresham, is on display in the High Street. The present church, named for St Dunstan, dates from the 12th century though little remains from a disastrous fire in 1389, which destroyed the village.
Lacock is one of those places that are almost frozen in another time. In this small picture-perfect Wiltshire village of about 350 souls, there are few overt trappings of the 21st century: no satellite dishes or TV aerials, no yellow lines, and only a small amount of signage – which anyway appears to be easily removable. Blank out the cars and rough-up the road surface a little and you’re transported back to the past, albeit a sanitised version where every building is immaculately maintained. Which explains why Lacock is one of the UK’s premier locations for filming period dramas, like Pride and Prejudice and Cranford. The village is owned by the National Trust.
Nr Chippenham
Godshill is a pretty little village, famed for its thatched cottages, tearooms, medieval church, model village and the fact that the first Isle of Wight Festival was held at nearby Ford Farm in 1968.
The model village is at 1:10 scale and depicts Godshill and Shanklin's old village. The church, All Saints', is noted for its medieval wall painting of a Lily crucifix and has a William Morris stained glass window.
Once there was East Firle and West Firle but nowadays it is generally simply ‘Firle’. The village has been a settlement since at least Saxon times and was mentioned in the Domesday Survey, its name coming from the Anglo-Saxon ‘Fierol’, meaning ‘oak covered land’ – though that was long ago as these days the village nestles in the lee of the largely treeless South Downs, Firle Beacon in particular. The village is essentially a single street, and a cul-de-sac, its houses attractive mixtures of warm tile, brick and flint. The reason the road goes nowhere is because the old road that ran at the foot of the South Downs between Brighton and Eastbourne closed in 1812. There were once three pubs, apparently; now just one, the popular Ram Inn. The village also has a cricket ground, post office and medieval church, St Peter’s. Virginia Woolf once rented a house in Firle. Nearby is Firle Place, a medieval manor with Georgian exterior that has been owned by the Gage family since the 15th century. There's a good-sized car park on the edge of the village.
Exton in Rutland is one of those villages that could be described as ‘quintessentially English’. It probably isn’t, because it is too picture-perfect, with a large number of chocolate-box cottages much loved by Instagrammers, an attractive tree-planted village green with a pub, the Fox and Hounds, and an interesting historic church dedicated to St Peter and St Paul, which dates from the 13th century. Nearby is a large country estate, Exton Park, and Barnsdale Gardens, created by Geoff Hamilton of the BBC television series Gardeners' World. Exton is also very handy for Rutland Water.
The village has an interesting history going back before the Norman Conquest, and is mentioned in the Domesday Survey of 1086, but the current buildings are mostly Victorian.
Empingham is an attractive village, with a striking looking church, on the road between Stamford and Oakham. It sits in the Gwash Valley at the dam (eastern) end of Rutland Water and there has been a settlement there since at least Saxon times (the name means something like ‘the settlement of the followers of Empa’.) The church, St Peter’s, is mostly 15th century, but dates from the 13th century; its impressive tower is 14th century. Most of the village’s buildings date from the late 18th/ and 19th centuries.
To the north east near Tickencote is the site of the Battle of Empingham, also known as Battle of Losecoat Field, which was fought on 12 March 1470 during the Wars of the Roses. It was a very short battle and a victory for the Yorkists.
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