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The Royal Garrison Church is the only remaining part of a hospital, known as Domus Dei, founded by the Bishop of Winchester in c1212. The buildings were gradually removed after the Reformation, leaving the church behind. Charles II married Catherine of Braganza here in 1662. On 10th January 1941 it was partially destroyed during a devastating German air raid. The nave remains roofless; the nave is fascinating.
Portsmouth
St Boniface Old Church, Bonchurch, is a gem for any church or heritage lover. It is one of the few medieval churches in Britain dedicated to this Saxon monk, who was martyred in the Netherlands in 755. Originally from Devon, but later based at monastery at Nursling near Southampton, he is believed to have preached in Bonchurch at Pulpit Rock on the downs above the village, close to where there is a legendary St Boniface Well. Boniface helped spread Christianity in Germany, became Archbishop of Mainz and has been credited with introducing the first Christmas tree.
The old church, which was replaced by a larger parish church, also dedicated to St Boniface, in 1848, is tiny and secluded. It is believed to date from the 11th century, but some windows are later medieval or Tudor and other features are 17th century. High on the north wall of the nave are the remains of rare Romanesque wall paintings believed to date from the early 12th century.
Bonchurch
St Giles' Horsted Keynes is one of the most picture-perfect Norman -medieval churches you will ever see. Its wealth is evident from the stonework. The church actually has Saxon origins - though it is also thought to be built on a pagan site, and possibly within a stone circle. Among its many interesting features is the tomb of the 'Little Crusader' in the chancel; what looks like the effigy of a child is that of a crusader knight and it is thought this marks the burial place of a crusader's heart, brought home from the Holy Land. Famous burials include Robert Leighton (1611-84), Bishop of Dunblane and Archbishop of Glasgow, who retired to the village. Also in the churchyard are Harold and Dorothy Macmillan. Macmillan (1894-1986), later Lord Stockton, was Prime Minister from 1957-63.
Horsted Keynes
St Paul's, Deptford, has been described as one of the finest Baroque churches in the country. It was designed by the architect Thomas Archer, a pupil of Sir Christopher Wren, and built between 1712 and 1730. It's an imposing wedding cake of a place, but impressive, mounted on a stone plinth and a little incongruous in its sadly run-down urban surroundings.
The man with the funny hat who seemed to be in charge was uninterested in the fact that my grandparents had been married there.
Deptford
St Cyriac was a boy saint and St Cyriac's in Lacock is one of the few churches in Britain dedicated to him. It is a very large parish church, mostly 15th century, on an earlier site and with features from 16th - 20th centuries. The Lady Chapel c1420 is exceptional and the Renaissance memorial of 1566 to Sir W Sharington of Lacock Abbey definitely worth a look. There are some particularly fine carvings, too.
Lacock
St Bartholomew's Hyde is the 12th century parish church of Hyde, once a village now a suburb of Winchester. The church is situated opposite the remaining gatehouse of Hyde Abbey, founded in 1110 and dissolved in 1538/9. The church stands within what were the abbey’s precincts to serve the needs of its tenants and lay officials. It is a flint and stone building with a tower built in 1541 using stones from the demolished abbey; the church was much restored in the 19th century. A collection of capitals from the abbey is on display inside. Outside, at its eastern end, is a plain slab grave marking a collection of bones from six medieval individuals once thought to have included King Alfred of Wessex, Alswitha and their son King Edward.
Hyde
Winchester
The The Hospital of St Cross and Almshouse of Noble Poverty was founded as a hospital for the poor between 1132 and 1136 by Henry of Blois, Bishop of Winchester, grandson of William the Conqueror and younger brother of King Stephen. Endowments enabled it to prosper and provide. In 1445, another powerful Bishop of Winchester, Cardinal Henry Beaufort, created the Order of Noble Poverty, and added the almshouses to the existing Hospital buildings. It continues to provide homes to twenty five brothers, who wear distinctive black or claret coloured robes. Visitors are able to see the Norman style church, Master’s Garden – and there is a teahouse and shop. The Hospital of St Cross is famous for the Wayfarer’s Dole - a horn of beer or ale with a piece of white bread given to any traveller that asks for it.
By far the best way to visit the Hospital of St Cross is on foot from Winchester Cathedral Close, through ancient gateways, past No 8 College Street, where author Jane Austen finished ‘Persuasion’, and died, turning right by Winchester College to the water meadows alongside the River Itchen. The path is wide, well trodden and wonderful. Keats enjoyed the same walk – it apparently inspired the ode ‘To Autumn’, written in 1819. To the right are the immaculate playing fields of Winchester College, founded in 1382 by William of Wykeham, Henry Beaufort’s predecessor as Bishop of Winchester. Its pupils are known as Wykehamists and the college motto is 'Manners Makyth Man' – the same as New College, Oxford, which was also founded by Wykeham. To the left are the water meadows, cattle-grazed and seeming to lap against the contours of St Catherine’s Hill, site of an ancient univallate Iron Age hillfort and medieval chapel. It is an immensely peaceful pathway, steeped in history and, somehow, very English. On a still, warm, June day, with the rich earthy scent of the riverbank wafting upward and the water sparkling and lapping nearby, it is almost heavenly. And, eventually, you will glimpse the hospital, like a scene from the past across a field.
Winchester
Victorian Gothic, largely brick-built, church constructed between 1858-69. It stands on a prehistoric man-made mound and, externally, is not much to look at; the interior is breathtaking, however. Alice Hargreaves, who inspired the Alice of Lewis Carroll's Wonderland and Looking-Glass, is buried in the churchyard.
Lyndhurst
St Paul's church Knightsbridge is an elaborate Victorian church, the first in London to champion the ideals of the ‘Oxford Movement’ – the so-called ‘Tractarians’ who sought to restore a sense of Catholicism to the established Church of England. The building was consecrated in 1843, and its features include iron columns and balcony supports, a striking rood screen and reredos and an unusual series of tiled panels around the walls of the nave.
During WW2, the church was used by the First Aid Nursing Yeomanry (FANY). A memorial on the outside of the north wall commemorates 52 FANYs who died on active service in World War II, carrying out secret intelligence work for the Special Operations Executive in occupied countries as well as providing transport drivers for the Auxiliary Territorial Service (ATS).
The Royal Hospital Chelsea was founded in 1682 by Charles II as a retirement home for soldiers. The architect was Christopher Wren. Today, it is home to about 300 veterans, who have served in the British Army all over the world over the last 60 years or so. Known as Chelsea Pensioners, they can be seen out and about in London in their distinctive red uniforms and three-cornered hats. Tours of the hospital can be arranged, and there is a museum. Particular highlights include the great hall and the Wren chapel. Among those buried on the site are ex-Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher and her husband Denis, in the Margaret Thatcher Infirmary, which opened in 2009. The Royal Hospital's extensive grounds are also the location for the annual RHS Chelsea Flower Show.
Chelsea
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