The small town of Criccieth is dominated by its ruined castle, dramatically perched on a coastal headland, flanked by two beaches. Criccieth Castle was originally a Welsh fortification, begun by Llywelyn the Great in the 13th century, who constructed an enormous gatehouse with two D-shaped towers. His grandson, Llywelyn the Last – added the outer ward, curtain walls and two new towers. The castle fell to the English King Edward I, however, who added his own improvements. In turn it was taken one last time in 1404 by Owain Glyndŵr, whose flames burnt so hot they have left scorches in the stonework. There is often a stiff breeze on the headland and it’s not hard to imagine the cries of the seagulls are the cries of men in battle…
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