Test your lungs on Pendle Hill

Pendle Hill, LancashirePendle Hill looms over East Lancashire between the towns of Clitheroe and Nelson.  With its distinctive humpback shape, visible for miles around from all directions, it is a local landmark, rising from an area of green beauty.  The district is dotted with tiny hamlets and farms, divided by ancient drystone walls and full of folklore and stories – not least the famous tale of the Pendle Witches.  Geographically, Pendle Hill is part of the Pennine Chain of hills that run north-south through the northern half of England.  It is included in the Forest of Bowland Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, though Pendle is a discrete hill, separated from the main upland area of Bowland by the Ribble Valley.

Pendle Hill, LancashirePrivate Road off Barley LaneThe summit of Pendle Hill is formed of tough gritstone and is 1,830 feet (558 metres) above sea level – far too small to be considered a mountain, but still a serious lump if you’re inclined to struggle to the top.  I had been considering trying to heave my bloated old body up Pendle Hill for some time, while I still can, and finally tackled it on a bright, but cold, winter’s day with the encouragement and delightful company of Daughter of Britain.  To my mind, there are few greater pleasures in life than a decent, companionable, walk – especially with the prospect of a couple of beers and some food afterwards as a reward.  We had a grand day, including exploring some of the places associated with the aforementioned witches. Our quest entailed navigating steep gradients along narrow country lanes, much pitted by frost damage, many running with water (no wonder the area is so green) and with lovely views around each corner.

Farm on Pendle Track up Pendle HillThe Pendle Witches were, mainly, poor women who got caught up in the fashionable frenzy of 17th century witch hunting.  They were brought to trial in Lancaster in 1612; ten were found guilty and hanged on the moors outside town.  Their sad story will be told on ABAB someday – meanwhile, you will find the Pendle Witches website useful.

The path up Pendle HillPendle Hill is also famous as the place where George Fox (1624-1691), founder of the Religious Society of Friends, or Quakers, had a vision in 1652.

“As we travelled we came near a very great hill, called Pendle Hill, and I was moved of the Lord to go up… When I was come to the top, I saw the sea bordering upon Lancashire. From the top of this hill the Lord let me see in what places he had a great people to be gathered.”

George’s vision helped inspire the birth of the Quaker movement.  He went on to preach to a crowd of one thousand at a remote spot some 50 miles to the north, now known as Fox’s Pulpit – another place associated with the birth of the Quaker movement.

On his way down Pendle Hill, in the direction of Downham village, George

“… found a spring of water in the side of the hill, with which I refreshed myself, having eaten or drunk but little for several days before”.

Fox’s Well is still there, although we did not see it on this visit. If anyone is interested, George Fox was buried in Quaker Gardens, near the fascinating Bunhill Fields in London.

View from Pendle Hill Pendle HillThere is a variety of walks around and over Pendle Hill.  We took a short, direct, steep, path up to the summit. It is not the prettiest walk in the world and you could hardly describe the landscape on Pendle Hill itself as interesting, but the views over the Lancashire countryside are sublime.  And so green – did I mention that?  The haul up the path to the top of the hill certainly tests your lung function – and leg muscles.  Really, it’s all a bit much at my time of life.  Even so, stone steps have been set into the path at most places and, apart from the incline, it is fairly easy going.  It was a little slippery and snowy near the top on the day, but nothing team Britain couldn’t handle.  The top, a curved plateau, is reached after a couple of false horizons, and the path then heads west and more gently upwards to the trig point, which has been usefully and attractively decorated with a protective circle of cobbles.  This makes a change from the muddy boot-worn patches surrounding most significant summits and must have taken some effort to build.  There was no one else there, apart from a nearby melting snowman and – with apologies to any serious climber reading this – to a lesser mortal it was one of those ‘top of the world’ moments.

Trig point, Pendle HillI was much intrigued by a sign pointing to ‘Ogden Clough’, which I imagined to be some kind of throat sweet, but a clough turns out to be northern speak for a steep valley or ravine and this was  directing folk to an alternative route. On the subject of names, Pendle Hill has an amusing etymology: pen is almost certainly Celtic from the tribes that lived here before and during Roman times, and means ‘hill’. This has been combined with Old English (Anglo-Saxon) hyll – which also means ‘hill’, corrupted over time to Pendle – ‘hill hill’.  In modern times, the original meanings being long forgotten, the word hill was added: so the name now means ‘hill hill hill’.

View from Pendle HillFor anyone wanting to follow our path, the keen ones among you will find it on OS Explorer map OL41, below.  We set off by parking on Barley Lane (put post code BB9 6LG into your trusty sat nav) near the junction with a private road leading to ‘the Cauldron’, Pendle Hill Snack Bar.  You cannot drive or park on the private road – an incongruous notice sternly warns that you are on CCTV and you may well be.  Anyway, walk over a cattle grid along the private road, bear right and the stepped path to the top is hard to miss.  If you’re reasonably fit, it will take you between 30 and 45 minutes from bottom to top.  We came down the same way, with thankfully fewer lung gasping and rattling noises than on the ascent.

65 thoughts on “Test your lungs on Pendle Hill

  1. quercuscommunity

    At different times two of my relatives kept a pub in Downham (which used to have grey telephone boxes to fit in with the natural beauty). Lots of us lived in Chatburn too, as I did as a kid. Lovely to see it because, as so many people have said before me, I won’t be climbing it again.

  2. hilarymb

    Hi Mike – what a great day out … especially with Daughter of Britain leading you along. I love the cobbled top – what a sensible idea … and those views to die for – except knowing the poor witches were caught and hanged nearby, and yes I’d forgotten about Fox preaching in the vicinity. Interesting about Pen … Penzance means Holy Headland … my neck of the woods (or was) … cheers Hilary

  3. V.M.Sang

    Although I lived not far from Pendle Hill in the 1960s,. I’ve never climbed it. This is a surprise to me, because, as a student in Manchester, I was an active member of the hiking club, but we never went there, nor did I go afterwards.
    The views from the top are superb.
    What surprises many people not from the north, is how beautiful Lancashire is.

  4. April Munday

    The etymology bit made me laugh. The views are amazing, so thank you for sharing them. Thank you for reminding me that time is running out for climbing steep hills. There are a few I must get up before it’s too late.

  5. artandarchitecturemainly

    I have never heard of Pendle in religious or agricultural terms before, but I do know about the
    Pendle Witches in detail. I cannot imagine the nightmare of 17th century witch hunts where women were hanged because they were elderly, rude or had warts on their face.

  6. Jennie

    So, Pendle Hill was associated with the supposed witches in the 1600’s, and was also a place of revelation to the founder of the Quakers. That’s very interesting. Of course the Salem witch trials here in Massachusetts happened at the same time. As to the Quakers, have you ever been in a Quaker Meeting House? Their masterful architecture with simple designs and huge windows envelopes the visitor.

    1. Mike@bitaboutbritain Post author

      Oh, the UK didn’t have the monopoly on superstitious claptrap – but it is interesting. Plenty of Quaker Meeting Houses over here – not sure I’ve ever been in one, though.

      1. Jennie

        Yes, the superstitions are very interesting! If you ever get the chance to go in a Quaker Meeting house, you won’t be disappointed. Best to you, Mike.

  7. Clare Pooley

    Those poor people accused of witchery! Thank you for this exhilarating walk, Mike and the beautiful views from the top. Thank you for pointing out that Pendle Hill is a discrete hill, a term I had not come across before. A most satisfactory piece of information. Best wishes to you and your family.

  8. Emma, West Sussex

    Such an interesting and beautiful post about a place I’ve never been to –
    I’d love to visit, and embrace the challenge – I am sure it’s still just as inspiring as George Fox found it. Those stone steps up, though, do look very hard work…
    I’m sure the strain of mounting them must add to the ‘top of the world’ feeling that the view gives, when climbers do manage to get to the summit! 🙂

          1. Emma, West Sussex

            oh, and would you add lots of fascinating information about the history of all the places you feature – with great pictures too… Job Done; thanks, Mike – your site is such a font of knowledge, and inspiration! 🙂

  9. Jim Borden

    that looks like wonderful hike – congrats on reaching the summit. I’m sure the views and the brews made it worthwhile.

    It was also interesting to read about the Quaker connection. I live in Pennsylvania, which was founded by a Quaker, William Penn, and there are still many Quaker meeting houses in the area.

  10. Eunice

    An area I’m reasonably familiar with as my mum had relatives who lived over that way. She would sometimes take me for picnics by the side of the stream running through Downham village when I was a child, although I’ve never yet climbed the hill hill hill 🙂

  11. John

    Great post, Mike. I would love to try hiking this hill for the beautiful view, but my body may have other plans! You have so much rich history in England, I am fascinated! ❤️

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