Last updated on August 23rd, 2023 at 01:34 pm
Everywhere in Britain, we walk in the footsteps of the past; it’s just not always that obvious. However, a relatively short, lung-bursting, stagger up to St David’s Head (Penmaen Dewi) in Pembrokeshire will take you to a reminder of a 5th century saint, the remains of an Iron Age settlement and field systems, a feature known as “Warriors’ Dyke” and one of Britain’s many “Arthur’s Quoits”. When we did it, we had some unexpected company along the way – as you might have noticed.
St David’s Head is a small, rugged, peninsula at the southern end of the Irish Sea on the Welsh side, rich in flora and fauna and topping off geology that dates back almost 500 million years. The Greek-Egyptian, Ptolemy, writing in the 2nd century AD called it ‘the Promontory of the Eight Perils’, in reference to the treacherous rocks, the Bishops and Clerks, which lie offshore waiting to ensnare unsuspecting shipping. It is an outrageously beautiful area, frequented by dolphins, seals, choughs, peregrine falcons and, occasionally, the Dartford warbler. Lest anyone thinks, as they might, that Mick Jagger visits these parts for his holidays, the Dartford warbler in this context is a small bird. It usually prefers warmer places like south-east England and Spain – though I expect the Spanish have another name for it, like the Barcelona belter or something (Sylvia undata, to save you looking).
The only way to explore St David’s Head is on foot and the easiest place to start is from the car park at Whitesands Bay. Head north from there up the coast path. You will shortly pass a shapeless lumpy green mound in the dunes that your keenly trained eye will instantly recognise as the spot where St Patrick’s chapel once stood. Allegedly, this was where travellers would say prayers for safe passage, or thanks for safe arrival, through these dangerous waters. Patrick, they say, came from these parts; perhaps he tended sheep nearby before being hauled off into slavery by raiders. Or did he sail from here on his return across the sea to convert the pagan Irish?
The path takes you past the small Porthmelgan Bay. If you’ve no head for heights, it’s wise to avoid looking down on occasions.
After about a mile, you will stumble upon Warriors’ Dyke (Clawdd-y-Milwyr), a structure of dry stone banks and a ditch, utilising natural features that once provided a defensive boundary across the headland. It was built by Iron Age farmers two or three thousand years ago and once stood 15 feet (4.5 metres) high. Now, it lies fallen and tumbled, no higher than a man, softened and made ill-defined by vegetation. Beyond the wall are 8 (some say 9) hut circles marking the location of the Iron Age village.
Why would our ancestors choose to live in such an exposed spot? However stunning the scenery, there must have been easier places to farm, hunt – and indeed find fresh water. Also, it’s a defensive position with no place to run – apart from meeting certain death on the rocks far below. Building such a formidable barrier as Warriors’ Dyke would have taken some effort, too. So one, albeit inexpert, conclusion is that these people were frightened of someone and were also, possibly, running away. Perhaps the clue’s in the name: Warriors’ Dyke; who were the warriors?
The shapes of the round huts of the village are quite clear. They were occupied in the early Roman period – so perhaps the residents were retreating from the Romans. Maybe they were used in the sub-Roman period. In any event, it gave me a strange feeling to be standing where people slept and cooked 2 thousand or so years’ ago, and to think of children playing nearby with the waves crashing 100’ below. I wonder what became of them all.
About a ¼ mile further on is Arthur’s Quoit, which according to legend was thrown from nearby Carn Llidi by King Arthur. This is one of many ‘Arthur’s Quoits’ in Britain – one source identifies more than 30. It is the remains of a Neolithic burial chamber, between 4 and 6,000 years’ old; the capstone (the bit that reminded folk of a quoit) is about 20’ (6 metres) long by about 8’ (2.5 metres) wide and now only supported, seemingly precariously, by one upright stone. Some believe its outline matches the shape of Carn Llidi to the east – there are similarities here with Pentre Ifan further up the coast.
We didn’t spot the field systems, though I’m sure they are there.
The thing about coastal paths is that you never know exactly what’s over the next hump. And there we were, innocently hunting Iron Age remains on the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, when, suddenly, we were no longer alone.
These semi-wild ponies are mostly owned by farmers and a fairly common sight in Pembrokeshire. Their grazing of the habitat helps keep it in good condition for other wildlife. Seeing them roaming free against the backdrop of this spectacular scenery is a real privilege.
The encounter with the ponies reminded me of a car trip, long ago, across Dartmoor. It was dark, and foggy; I crawled along in second gear, eyes peering myopically through the windscreen into the murk. Large shadows emerged out of the gloom and we found ourselves surrounded by a small herd of stocky Dartmoor ponies. My then five-year old daughter’s voice piped up from the back seat, “Are those ponies wild, Daddy?” My reply was predictable: “Oh, they look pretty cross to me, Possum.”
Mike (if I may be so bold to call you by your Christian name), you never disappoint!
Thank you very much! I think we can risk a little informality, just this once…
Now that sounds like a fascinating old place, not only historic but scenic too.
I would love to hire you as a tour guide if I can ever get across the ocean. What stunning scenery and the historical knowledge of the area is fascinating.
I’d be delighted!
Another new, beautiful and interesting place that I didn’t know about! You share such great places!
Thanks Amy!
It reminds me very much of the area around Tintagel, the dwellings must be about the same age. And similarly exposed!
The Pembrokeshire coast does have similarities with Cornwall. Love Tintagel – one of my all-time favourite places!
I am thinking of seeing those stocky ponies through the eyes of a five year old, that must have been scary for her!
I think she was more excited than anything; I’ll ask her!
Lovely pony club shots and a great part of the UK. Never got as far down into Wales as that myself but it looks stunning.
Looks so beautiful, I love all of the photo’s.
All the best Jan
That looks like a fascinating walk, you have captured some great photos.
Hi Mike – I do look forward to visiting that part of the world – I’ve never been that far west … and St David’s always entices … and yes what would they think of us standing in their sleep area, or peering into their food pots … funny old world … but I enjoy it and that look back in history … cheers Hilary
Your lovely images demonstrate that this area should be explored on foot it looks amazing! Sarah x
Great post Mike – having visited St. Davids many years ago I now wonder why I did not venture further on to the ‘Head’.
That area is rather off the beaten track but looking at your photos it obviously helps to keep the area stunning and unspoilt.
Great photos and always love the history lesson!
Carla
Thanks to The Little White House’s Magali, I am enjoying a bit about Britain. I just returned to the USA after 25 days in Britain, my 9th trip and the more I see the more I love it!!!
Hey – thanks very much. Hope you keep enjoying it and visit more and more!
We loved this coast when we holidayed there – very similar to Cornwall but fewer people.
The ponies are quite photogenic. A beautiful area!
It occurs to me that head is a geographic term that doesn’t get used on this side of the ocean, much the same as a dale.
It looks stunning and full of history, as usual.